Why a motorbike needs a history check just as much as a car — in some ways more
This guide covers what a motorbike history check shows, and why write-off rules are tougher on bikes. You'll also see which licence you need for each bike and the red flags to spot in person. It sits alongside our guide to car history checks. The same thinking applies, with a few bike-specific differences below.
Bikes are an easier target for thieves than cars. They're simpler to move, simpler to break up for parts, and harder to secure.
No official figure puts a number on that gap. The Office for National Statistics has confirmed as much. Police-recorded vehicle theft data doesn't split motorbikes out from other vehicles in most published figures. So treat any exact multiplier you see quoted elsewhere with plenty of caution.
Insurers, dealers and bike-safety bodies all still treat theft as a much bigger risk on two wheels. That's a big part of why sports and performance bikes in particular carry steep theft-related loadings on the premium. Average bike premiums are lower than average car premiums. That's down to lower yearly mileage and seasonal use, not theft.
There's a safety reason too. A crash bad enough to damage a bike's frame is never just cosmetic. On a car, that damage might be cosmetic. The write-off rules below explain why.
Insurance write-off categories are tougher on bikes than cars
Bikes use the same four write-off categories as cars: Cat A, Cat B, Cat S and Cat N. They come from the ABI Code of Practice for the Categorisation of Motorised Vehicle Salvage. It's the trade rulebook that covers both. Our guide to write-off categories walks through what each category means.
None of this is new. Bike-specific guidance has been part of the Code since 2017. That's the overhaul that replaced the old Cat A/B/C/D system with Cat A/B/S/N. The current edition, updated on 28 May 2025, still treats frame damage on a bike more strictly than on a car.
On a car, structural damage can sometimes be assessed as Cat S. That means repairable, and legal to put back on the road once it's fixed and passed as roadworthy. On a motorbike, that route is much narrower.
The Code has said since 2017 that "structural damage to a motorbike frame will result in a Category B... assessment and the frame will be crushed". That's quoted here via Thatcham Research, which co-develops the categorisation standards. Part of the reason is to shut down motorbike part theft and tampering with frame and engine numbers.
So treat frame damage on a bike as very likely Cat B territory. Check what the report itself shows rather than assuming either way. A Cat B vehicle can never be re-registered or go back on the road. Full stop.
If a bike shows as Cat S, the damage was assessed as structural but repairable. I'd want an independent inspection of the repair before relying on that alone. Cat N works the same as on a car: non-structural damage, no restriction on going back on the road. Cat A is the same too: total destruction, with no parts reusable.
What a motorbike history check shows
A check on a bike's registration covers the same ground as a car check. That means outstanding finance, write-off category, mileage discrepancy, and whether it's showing as reported stolen. Our Comprehensive check is built around exactly this data, and the sample report shows what you get. Run one before you commit to a bike, the same way you would for a car.
As with any vehicle check, treat a clean result as strong reassurance rather than an absolute guarantee. It shows what's been reported by the time you run it, and nothing after that. Not sure a specific registration is supported? Contact us before you rely on the result, and see the FAQ below.
Which licence do you need? CBT, A1, A2 and full Category A
This is the one check a car buyer never has to think about. Buying a bike you can't legally ride on your current licence is a common mistake. Sort it out before you fall in love with a bike, not after.
UK bike licences work in stages, per gov.uk:
- CBT, or Compulsory Basic Training, is what lets you ride on L-plates before you hold a full licence at any level. You need it first for AM, A1, A2 and full-A direct access. You don't need it again if you're progressing from an A1 or A2 licence you already hold.
- AM covers mopeds up to 50cc, under 4kW, with a top speed of 28mph. Minimum age 16.
- A1 covers light motorbikes up to 125cc and 11kW. Minimum age 17.
- A2 covers motorbikes up to 35kW, roughly 47bhp. Minimum age 19.
- Category A, the full unrestricted licence, covers any motorbike with no power limit. Minimum age 24 via direct access, or 21 if you've held an A2 licence for at least two years (progressive access).
Before you buy, check the bike's power output against what your current licence allows. No dealer or private seller has to check that for you. Riding above your licence category is an offence, and it has insurance consequences too.
Buying checklist — beyond the history check
A history check and a licence check cover the paperwork risk. In person, a handful of quick checks catch most mechanical problems:
- Frame and forks: look for ripples, fresh paint in odd places, or misaligned panels. Those are all signs of a crash nobody declared.
- Chain and sprockets: lots of slack, or worn and hooked teeth, means you'll be paying to replace them soon.
- VIN and frame number: check it matches the V5C, the logbook, and isn't scratched, re-stamped or ground smooth. It's the same red flag as a car's chassis plate.
- Service history and paperwork: look for a logbook and a service record from a reputable source. Be wary if the seller can't produce a V5C at all.
- Cold start: ask to see the bike started from cold. An engine that's suspiciously warm already can be masking a starting problem.
Enthusiast guides go deeper on the mechanical checks than we do here. This page covers the history-check and licence angle most of them skip.
FAQs
Do I need a history check before buying a used motorbike?
Yes. The reasons are the same as for a car. Outstanding finance, write-off status, stolen reports and mileage discrepancies don't announce themselves on a test ride. None of it shows on the bike itself.
What does a motorbike history check show?
A check covers outstanding finance, write-off category, mileage discrepancies, and whether the bike is showing as reported stolen. It all runs from the bike's registration number. That's the same data a car check uses.
Are motorbikes more likely to be stolen than cars?
Insurers and bike-safety bodies widely treat bikes as a bigger theft target. But official crime figures don't publish one clean comparison between motorbikes and cars. So treat any exact multiplier you see quoted with plenty of caution.
What licence do I need to ride a used motorbike I'm buying?
It depends on the bike's power output and your current licence stage: CBT, A1, A2 or full Category A. Check the bike's power against gov.uk's licence categories before you commit. Riding above your category is an offence.
Can a Cat S motorbike be ridden safely after repair?
Cat S bikes can legally return to the road once professionally repaired and passed as roadworthy. But frame damage on a bike is far more likely to be assessed Cat B than the same damage on a car. A Cat B bike is crushed and never returns to the road. The ABI's Code has treated it this strictly since 2017.
Does a car history check work for a motorbike registration?
Our check uses the registration number for UK-registered vehicles. If you're unsure a specific check covers your bike, contact us before you rely on the result.